When I first set foot in Trunyan Village, right by the calm waters of Lake Batur, it felt like stepping into another world. The place was so still, so quiet. It was nothing like the lively, bustling Bali most people know. It was like time had stopped here, holding onto the village’s ancient ways.
Then I walked into the burial grounds, and honestly, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Rows of human skulls lay right there, out in the open. It was eerie, sure, but also completely fascinating. And the wildest part? No smell. None. Even though there were decomposing bodies under the sacred Taru Menyan tree, there wasn’t even a hint of anything unpleasant.
The History
Why don’t the people of Trunyan Village bury or cremate certain bodies? The answer ties back to a fascinating old legend.
It all starts with a tree, the taru menyan. This tree was so special because it gave off a scent so sweet and strong, that people could smell it on Java Island. Naturally, this caught the attention of the four children of the ruler of Surakarta, Raja Dalem Solo. Curious and determined to find out where the smell came from, they set off on an adventure.
But the journey wasn’t easy. Along the way, the younger siblings got distracted by the beauty of the land. They were so taken by it that the oldest brother told them to stay put while he kept going. He eventually found the source: a single tree, its scent growing stronger the closer he got. The tree wasn’t just a tree, though, it was guarded by a beautiful goddess who quickly captured his heart.
The goddess’s brother had one condition for the oldest brother: If he wanted to marry her, he had to stay in the area and rule over the village. The brother agreed, becoming Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat, the first leader of Trunyan Village. His bride became Ratu Ayu Pingit Dalam Dasar.
The village thrived under their rule, but the king had one big worry. The tree’s scent was so strong that he feared it might attract enemies from faraway lands. So, he came up with a unique solution. Instead of burying or cremating their dead, the villagers would place bodies under the taru menyan tree. The natural scent of the tree mixed with the smell of the bodies, keeping the fragrance from traveling too far. And just like that, the tradition was born.
Unique Customs and Traditions
Trunyan Village is renowned for its unique funeral customs, which starkly contrast with the cremation practices common in other parts of Bali. Here, the deceased is placed under the sacred Taru Menyan tree, a fragrant tree that miraculously neutralizes the smell of decay.
The bodies, wrapped in white cloth with their faces exposed, are arranged in a bamboo prism known as “ancak saji.” This Mepasah tradition is reserved for those who died of natural causes, were married, or were young children without milk teeth. The village’s social structure is also unique, with the Banjar Jero caste holding the ruling position and the Banjar Jaba caste forming the lower tier. These customs and traditions offer a fascinating glimpse into the Bali Aga people’s way of life.
Burial Grounds in Trunyan Cemetery
The Trunyan Cemetery is divided into three distinct burial areas, each serving a specific group of deceased based on age, marital status, and circumstances of death:
- Sema Wayah:
This is the most sacred burial area, reserved for adults who are ceremonially buried in the traditional Mepasah manner. These individuals are placed on the ground, covered with a white cloth, and enclosed in bamboo cages. This section reflects the utmost reverence and is dedicated to those who have lived a full and honorable life. - Sema Nguda:
This section is designated for unmarried individuals. The burial process here follows the same unique tradition of leaving the body exposed on the ground but recognizing the distinct social status of the deceased. - Sema Bantas:
This area is set aside for individuals who have died unnaturally or in tragic circumstances, such as accidents or violence. The separation of this group signifies the community’s acknowledgment of the unique nature of their passing and the rituals required to honor them appropriately.
Funeral Traditions
In Trunyan, the funeral tradition is treated with patience and deep respect. The Bali Aga people don’t bury their loved ones right away. Instead, the dead body stays at home with the family while village elders – spiritual leaders in the community, find the perfect day for the burial. How do they decide? They look at the deceased’s birthday or other spiritual signs to pick an auspicious day. Sometimes, that decision can take a week or even a month. Yes, a month. That’s how important the “right day” is.
Once the day is set, the family prepares the body. It’s wrapped in a white cloth, carried to the cemetery, and placed under a huge banyan tree called the Taru Menyan Tree. At the cemetery, there are 11 bamboo platforms, called “ancak saji.” Each body gets its spot. When all the platforms are full, the remains of the oldest burial are gently moved to an open area to make room.
Over time, the cemetery becomes a haunting yet sacred place where bones and skulls are carefully arranged, a visual reminder of Trunyan’s deep connection to life, death, and tradition.
The Significant Role of Taru Menyan Trees
The Taru Menyan tree plays a crucial role in the village’s burial practices. In Trunyan, the deceased are not buried or cremated as in other parts of Bali. Instead, their dead bodies are placed on the ground beneath this sacred tree, covered with a simple bamboo cage known as an “ancak saji.” Remarkably, despite the tropical climate, there is no noticeable odor of decomposition.
The name “Taru Menyan” comes from two local words: “Taru,” meaning tree, and “Menyan,” meaning fragrant. That’s exactly what it is – a tree that smells amazing. The villagers believe that the tree’s natural fragrance neutralizes any unpleasant smells, allowing the bodies to decompose naturally in the open air.
And it’s not just about the smell. This place is free of maggots, worms, and all the usual stuff that shows up when bodies decay. Locals believe the tree has special natural powers that keep everything clean and odor-free. Science? Magic? No one knows for sure, but the result is nothing short of amazing.
Standing beneath the Taru Menyan, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of respect for the Trunyan people’s harmonious relationship with nature. This ancient tree not only serves a practical purpose in their funeral traditions but also embodies the village’s spiritual connection to their ancestors and the natural world.
How to Reach The Famous Bali Aga Village
Trunyan Village. Tucked away on the isolated eastern shore of Lake Batur in the Kintamani District of Bangli Regency, this village offers a rare glimpse into Bali’s ancient culture. Home to the Bali Aga people, often called the “original Balinese,” Trunyan stands apart from the bustling lowland tourist spots. The Bali Aga people live among the mountains in remote areas, which has allowed them to preserve their ancient traditions and language. When you visit Bali, consider including Trunyan Village as part of your journey to experience its unique cultural heritage.
The journey to Trunyan starts in Kedisan Village. From there, you’ll hop on a small boat that takes about 20–30 minutes to cross Lake Batur. The ride? Stunning. Calm waters, fishing boats dotting the lake, and Mount Batur towering in the background like something out of a postcard.
Pro tip: Hire a private driver or guide to get you to Kedisan. Not only will it make things way easier, but a good guide will also spill all the juicy stories about Trunyan’s history. Expect to pay around IDR 500,000 (roughly $33 USD) for the round-trip boat ride.
Best Time to Visit Trunyan Village
The ideal time to visit Trunyan Village is during the dry season, from May to September when the weather is pleasant and the lake’s waters are calm. With 8-9 hours of sunshine each day, this period offers the best conditions for exploring the village and its surroundings.
While Trunyan can be visited year-round, the wet season may pose challenges due to heavy rainfall. To fully appreciate the village’s rich history and culture, it is recommended to hire a private tour guide. A knowledgeable guide can provide valuable insights and ensure a smooth and enriching experience.
Responsible Tourism
When visiting Trunyan Village, it is crucial to practice responsible tourism. The Bali Aga people, while not overly hospitable, are willing to share their unique cemetery with respectful visitors. It is important to avoid sneaking into the cemetery with unauthorized guides, as this can offend the villagers.
Booking a private tour with a reputable operator ensures that your visit is respectful and responsible. A good tour operator will provide comprehensive information about the village’s history, culture, and customs, enhancing your understanding and appreciation of this unique community. By respecting local traditions and supporting ethical tourism practices, visitors can help preserve Trunyan’s cultural heritage for future generations.
Tips to Make Your Trip Awesome
Visiting Trunyan is about respect. Wear modest clothing (this isn’t the place for crop tops and shorts) and soak in the experience without turning it into a photo op. The best time to go is during the dry season (May to September) when the weather is perfect and the lake is calm. Bring sunscreen, water, and comfy shoes, because no one likes to explore in flip-flops that can’t handle uneven ground.
Conclusion
Nestled on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, Trunyan Village is a famous Bali Aga village that offers a unique window into Bali’s ancient past. Unlike the bustling tourist hubs of lowland Bali, Trunyan remains a sanctuary of age-old traditions and customs. Trunyan is a must-visit destination for those eager to explore the lesser-known aspects of Bali’s rich heritage and get a little goosebumps.